On The Road: From Hagi and Popescu to Danny Armstrong... football in Bucharest has history and hope

The Starbucks at the entrance to the Old Town makes a familiar point by its very presence. The Half-Time Bar roars a modern truth incessantly.

Bucharest 2026, beneath the enduring glitz of imperial time and amid the clinging grip of post-communism, has become marked by globalism.

Starbucks serves its universal wares and the Half-Time Bar resounds to the English Premier League. Yet the fabulous gems of Romanian football are not far away.

The Muzeul Fotbalului sits on the edge of the Old Town. It is starkly modern. Its four floors offer strips to buy, interactive displays to goggle at and fiddle with, and shirts to admire or even covet. There are strips worn by Maradona, Pele, Cruyff and Ronaldo. But there is Romanian history too.

Gheorghe Hagi, Gheorghe Popescu and Cristian Chivu are rightly celebrated. The wonderful run by the national team to the quarter-finals of the World Cup is recalled in full, glorious colour.

There is a tribute to Helmuth Duckadam, who is the only goalkeeper to have saved four penalties in a Champions League final. When Steaua Bucharest defeated Barcelona in a penalty shoot-out in 1986, since you ask. Incidentally, Miodrag Belodedici is the only Romanian to win the Champions League twice, once with Steaua and then with Red Star in 1991.

Scottish winger Danny Armstrong scored in Dinamo Bucharest's 2-0 win over UTA Arad

'That era is gone. It is not coming back any time soon,' says Jo, dishing out tickets while fielding questions from visitors.

Football was strong under communist rule with star players tied to clubs and only allowed to leave for abroad at the behest of the government. Steaua was the team of the ministry of defence, Dinamo Bucharest was the team of the police. Both ruled the roost. Two years before Steaua won the Champions League, Dinamo lost in the semi-finals.

Now Steaua has been rent asunder. It is now called FCSB after a legal dispute over ownership of its name after a takeover by Gigi Becali. Dinamo have not won the title since 2006. Both seem to be haunted by old glories.

'I am Steaua,' says Jo. 'I always will be. My father was too. He said to me I had a choice: 'Support Steaua or sleep outside'.'

But Jo accepts that the best that can be hoped for is a minor renaissance in the national side.

'Club football at the highest level is simply about money and there is little of that here,' he says.

The verdict is more gloomy from Toni. With desultory glances towards Manchester City against Brighton playing out on multiple screens in the Half-Time Bar, the student says: 'The only team we have in European football this season is Universitatea (of Craiova). The others went out in qualifying. Steaua, for example, could not even qualify for the European Conference League. Universitatea is in that. That's where we are.'

There is no sneering from this Scot. 'Look at your country,' he says. 'Maybe a little bit better but nowhere near what it was.'

Dinamo Bucharest have not won the league for 20 years, but they have a passionate support

Ion, an older gentleman, interjects. 'It is a cabal now,' he says of European competition. 'Maybe good for the TV but only four or five teams outside of England can win it.'

But he adds: 'I am Dinamo. I still go. You will see what it means tomorrow.'

The Sunday game against UTA Arad is certainly compelling. There is a large crowd with an excellent atmosphere. But the cup tie last Wednesday against Chindia Targoviste was instructive for this observer.

It showcased what was still impressive about the Romanian game. It was possible, too, to have conversation with supporters as the cup is not taken too seriously at this stage and the crowd was only a few thousand.

The venue was the National Arena as the Dinamo Stadium is being rebuilt. The National Stadium is a wonderful arena, far better than anything we have to offer in Scotland. On Wednesday, as the rains thundered in Bucharest, the closed roof offered what seemed like a view of the stars but was, in fact, an array of lights peppering the modern protection from elements.

My accent invited conversation. 'Ah, a Scotsman,' muttered a companion in the splendid stand. 'Thank you for coming. It is good that Romanian football can be spoken about elsewhere.'

There was particular pleasure at my identity. 'Danny Armstrong is simply our hero,' says Nick, an engineer, who is at the game with his son and his friend Piti. 'He is the best player in the country and we will enjoy him while we can. Why does he not play for the national team?'

The answer to this is debated but there is no room for argument with Armstrong's impact on the Superliga since his move from Kilmarnock. 'It is not only goals and assists,' says Nick. 'He leads the team so well by his example. He is not in the team tonight because he is too important to risk in this fixture. If we are in trouble, he might come on but I don't foresee this.'

Gheorghe Hagi is among the Romanian legends celebrated at Bucharest's Muzeul Fotbalului

He is right. Dinamo win 5-2 and Armstrong remains on the bench. The player is thus fresh to give Mailsport an exclusive interview the next day. This is coming soon to a sports page near you but no spoiler alert is needed to reveal that the Scot is relishing his opportunity in the Romanian capital.

He is the fans' darling. And Dinamo, despite their recent lack of success, have a strong, impassioned support. 'This club has struggled and we have not won the league for 20 years,' says Piti. 'But there was even once a threat to our existence a few years ago but the fans pulled together.'

He points out that supporters would buy three tickets each for a game just to help Dinamo pay the bills. 'We put everything we could in. I know football is really just bread and circuses so success is not too important to me. But the existence of the club is. That's important.'

Dinamo stood for the opposition to the Ceausescu regime under communism. 'Steaua was run by Nicu, the son of Nicolae, the leader of the country. So it was regarded as the team of the regime and obviously it had strong links to the military. Dinamo was the team many dissenters backed.'

That was then. This is now. The team has strong designs on the title. 'With Danny we can do anything,' says Nick.

This sentiment was reinforced tonight. Armstrong walked on the pitch carrying his two-year-old daughter, Darby. He left to an ovation with minutes remaining, having scored a beautiful opener in their 2-0 victory. These are good days for the player and the fans who love him.